Gretchen Stuppy Carlson
High in the mountains of Madeira, Portugal, the Fanal Forest is a mystical and eerie cloud covered forest with ancient, gnarled Ocotea foetens (laurel) trees covered in moss twist through the fog, creating an almost dreamlike landscape that photographers and hikers love.
You don’t need to plan a long visit to the forest, but it is absolutely worth a visit and is on the way if you are driving over the center of the island. Below you will see all the details you need to know to visit the Fanal Forest – you can also see our full itinerary for our visit to Madiera.
Fun fact: favorite part of the forest is that you can hear but not see the cows roaming nearby. This adds to the whole ambiance.
Why Visit the Fanal Forest
Visitors come here for the otherworldly atmosphere, where changing light and mist transform the forest by the minute. You can explore easy walking trails, picnic areas, and scenic viewpoints overlooking the Ribeira da Janela valley. On clear days, it’s peaceful and green; when the fog rolls in, it’s pure magic. Try to visit when the clouds are over the mountain (often in the afternoon).
How to get to the Fanal Forest
From Funchal:
Drive west along the VE4 highway toward Ribeira Brava, then take the ER209 road up to Paul da Serra plateau. Continue following signs toward Fanal or Ribeira da Janela.
🕒 Drive time: About 1 hour 15 minutes (roughly 60 km).
🅿️ Parking: There’s a small parking lot at the Fanal picnic area, near the forest and the Fanal Pond trailhead.
From Porto Moniz (Northwest Madeira):
Take ER209 south up the mountain from the coast.
🕒 Drive time: Around 20–25 minutes.
This route winds up through steep, misty terrain — it’s beautiful but narrow, so drive carefully.
There is a large parking lot with lots of parking although it can fill up. If you don’t find a spot, just be patient as people tend to leave regularly.
Stopping for a Quick Visit
The easiest way to visit the Fanal forest is for a quick visit. Plan at least 30 minutes to wander through the forest. This involves some hiking but it is really just wandering through the forest. You’ll see plenty of other people at this popular site taking photos.
If you want a longer visit, you can find a series of hiking trails in the area.
Hiking Trails in the Fanal Forest
You don’t need to hike to visit the forest – however there are some great trails in this part of the island. Here are the 4 best trails to explore the Fanal Forest. You can also see some of our favorite trails on Madeira in our 4 Day Itinerary or you can see our 3 favorite hiking trails in our newsletter.
PR13 Vereda do Fanal
- Distance: 10.8 km one way (or ~21 km return)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Duration: 3–4 hours (one way)
- Highlights: Begins on the Paúl da Serra plateau and descends into the misty laurel forest with sweeping views over Ribeira da Janela Valley. Great mix of open highland and forest scenery.
PR14 Levada dos Cedros
- Distance: 7.2 km (or ~12 km loop)
- Difficulty: Moderate
- Duration: 3–4 hours
- Highlights: Follows a levada (irrigation channel) through dense laurel forest, moss-covered trees, and small waterfalls. Ideal for those who want a quiet, immersive forest experience.
Fanal Forest Loop Walk
- Distance: 2–3 km loop
- Difficulty: Easy
- Duration: 45–60 minutes
- Highlights: Short circular walk near the Fanal parking area through the ancient, twisted laurel trees. Perfect for photography and those wanting a gentle stroll in the misty forest.
Fanal to Ribeira da Janela (Extended Route)
- Distance: ~12 km
- Difficulty: Moderate–Hard
- Duration: 4–5 hours
- Highlights: A longer continuation of PR13 that leads from the Fanal Forest down to the coastal village of Ribeira da Janela. Features dramatic mountain and valley views.
