Gretchen Stuppy Carlson
The incredible Croda da Lago hike has it all, from sweeping mountain views, gorgeous Lago Federa, and the possibility to spend the night at Rifugio Croda da Lago (or Rifugio Palmieri). This is one of our favorite hikes in the Dolomites of Italy and we loved spending the night in an Italian Mountain hut. The hike is just a short drive from Cortina d’Ampezzo and goes around the spikey mountain ridge of Croda da Lago, descending on the eastern side to the beautiful Lago Federa and the Rifugio Croda da Lago.
This post will share exactly what you need to know to hike the Croda da Lago Circuit as well as what you need to know to stay at Rifugio Croda da Lago (including how to book a stay in an Italian mountain hut, what to expect, and what to pack).
You may also see this hike listed at Lago Federa hike or the Croda de Lago Hike.
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Quick Look at the Croda da Lago Loop Hike
This section provides a snapshot of the hike to Croda da Lago – if you want a more detailed description of the hike, scroll down to the bottom of this post.
Distance: 8 miles Elevation Gain: 3,000 feet Difficulty: Challenging Notes: This hike can be done in either direction. After careful reading we decided to hike this in a counterclockwise direction to do the longer portion on the first day on our way to the hut. We also preferred hiking up the challenging boulder section.
Start the hike from the trailhead on SP638 at Ponte de Ru Curto. Parking is along the road and does fill up. From here the trail travels through a lovely pine forest for about 1.8 miles with a small amount of elevation gain. The trail passes over several bridges and has very few views.
After 1.8 miles you will get to a trail split. The left trail #434 goes more directly to Lago Federa and will take you around the Croda da Lago Loop hike in a clockwise direction. We chose to turn right and hike this in a counterclockwise direction.
The trail ascends through the most challenging part of the hike from here through a boulder field to Forcella del Formin (2462 m). The footing is challenging through this section and there are several steep sections. Give yourself extra time navigating through this part of the hike. The view from here is incredible.
From here, you can take two different trails. I strongly recommend taking the trail to Forcella Ambrizola (2277 m). There is a shorter trail that goes to the left here, but this walk involves a steep walk down a scree field that is very unpleasant. The trail to Forcella Ambrizola is much easier and descend steeply before rising up to the saddle – from here you can see across to the Tre Cime region. You will also see Rifugio Croda da Lago and Lake Federa – the path leads along the hillside of the east side of Croda da Lago and is straightforward and easy.
Stop at Lago Federa for a snack, or spend the night in Rifugio Croda da Lago also known as Rifugio Palmieri. After your stop continue north along the edge of a lake. From here, the trail back to the trailhead is generally easy with a slight ascent before dropping back into the forest for the last part of the hike.
Read more at the end of this post for more details on hiking to Rifugio Croda da Lago.
Map of the Loop Hike to Rifugio Croda da Lago
Below you can find several maps of the Croda da Lago hike. In general, the trail is very easy to follow as it goes around the Croda da Lago rock formation. Pay careful attention once you get to Forcella de Formin and as you make your way up through the Boulder Field.
Getting to the Start of the Croda da Lago Loop Hike
Parking at the trailhead is somewhat limited and official spots off the road fill up in the morning. We arrived right at 9:00 and got one of the last parking spots. The image below shows the cars along the road right at 9:00. Try to arrive at the parking area early in the morning or later in the day to avoid the crowds.
The trailhead is located at SP638 at Ponte de Ru Curto and is about a 15 minute drive from Cotrina d’Ampezzo. Our map app showed the trailhead correctly and was easy to find and is visible in the map below.
It is also possible to take a bus to the start of the Croda da Lago hike from Cortina during the summer months. Take line 30/4 (Cortina d’Ampezzo – Passo Giau – Selva di Cadore – Pescul) on the Dolomiti Bus to the Ponte di Rocurto trailhead/ Pian del Pantan. If you want a bit of an adventure, take the bus one way, hike to Lago Federa and then hike back to Cortina d’Ampezzo on path #432 (about 6 km).
Also note that there is a shorter hike to get to Rifugio Croda da Lago and Lago Federa if that is your goal although the hike is not nearly as pretty at the Croda da Lago Loop described above. For the shorter hike, park at Rucurto (or Ru Curto) You can search for hiking path 437 on the road between Cortina and passo Giau (SP638).
Rifugio Croda da Lago
The Croda da Lago circuit hike is one of the best day hikes in the Dolomites. The only way to improve the hike is by making it an overnight and spending the night in Rifugio Croda da Lago also known as G. Palmieri mountain hut. We think this is the best 2 day hike in the Dolomites. Even if you don’t want to spend the night, it’s worth stopping at Croda da Lago for a slice of cake or an afternoon drink. Below you can find everything you need to know about planning a Dolomite mountain hut trip and the specifics on visiting Rifugio Croda da Lago.
What to Expect at Rifugio Croda da Lago
Rifugio Croda da Lago sits at the base of the impressive Croda da Lago mountain along the edge of Federa Lake. This stunning lake and the backdrop of mountains make an beautiful place to spend the night. The hut is especially beautiful to visit in the fall when the larch trees put on a colorful display.
Like many of the mountain huts in the Dolomites, Rifugio Croda da Lago offers food service for overnight guests and day hikers and bunkrooms for spending the night. These huts are comfortable and allow you to hike into the backcountry for the night without packing a tent or even a sleeping bag. Leave the large pack at home and pack like you would for a day hike with a few additional items.
Note that is also possible to bike to the Rifugio and there is an ebike charging station. There is also a sauna at the hut.
Croda da Lago Rifugio sleeps 50 people in several different sized rooms including a 15 person dormitory. Many of the rooms offer incredible mountain views. The beds were basic and fairly comfortable. The hut has an indoor eating area as well as a large outdoor deck. Like other mountain huts, you should only sit at the tables if you plan to purchase food and drink.
Since this is a popular hut, it is best to book your stay in advance on the Rifugio’s website. For popular summer weekends, it’s best to book by early spring. For other dates, book your stay a few months in advance.
Food at Rifugio Croda da Lago
Below you can find the cost for staying in the hut during the summer of 2022. If you are staying the night, you can get half board (with dinner and breakfast) or get your food a la carte. We found the food filling and great for mountain hut fare.
| Stay | Stay for CAI/DAV members | Half board | Half board for CAI/DAV members | Buffet breakfast | Shower |
| € 33,00 | € 19,50 | € 65,00 | € 55,00 | € 10,00 | € 5,00 |
How to Book Rifugio Croda Da Lago
You can book your stay at Rifugio online. Booking is easy and can be done by a form directly online. You can pay for the hut when you visit, although there is likely a deposit.
What to Pack for your Hike to Rifugio Croda Da Lago
Compared to backpacking with a tent, a trip to an Italian Rifugio feels easy and luxurious. Below you can find a list of items to pack for an overnight hut trip during the summer.
Start by packing as you would for a day hike. Make sure to carry extra layers and emergency equipment. Below you can see our day hike packing list.
Day Hike Packing List
- Hiking Boots
- Day Hiking Backpack
- Clothing Layers
- Rain and Wind Layers
- Food
- Water
- Navigation
- Flashlight or Headlamp
- Sun Protection
- Repair Kit
- First Aid Kit
- Cell Phone
- Small Knife
- Emergency kit – whistle, cord, firestarter, mirror
- Hiking Poles (optional)
In addition to your day hike supplies, you should also pack a few additional items. Below you can see a list of additional items for your hut trip.
Hut Trip Packing List
- Sleeping Bag Liner – you can purchase a single use sleeping bag liner at the hut, or bring your own. Here is the sleeping bag liner we purchased and like. Bedding is provided at the hut.
- Light – this is listed on the list above, but is a must for any hut trip.
- Slippers – while this is optional (you can always wear socks) you can’t wear shoes into a hut, so you will want to make sure you have something comfortable on your feet.
- Toiletries and a small quick dry towel.
- Chargers – recharge your phone with your charger during your stay.
What NOT to pack for a Hut Trip
While you don’t need much for your hut trip, there are a few things you should NOT bring on a hut trip
- Sleeping Bag – these are not only discouraged, but not allowed at most huts
- Stove and Cooking gear – while you can cook your own food, generally people using the tables and eating area should plan to purchase food at the hut. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t carry day hiking food like snacks and water.
Highlights of our Stay in Rifugio Croda da Lago
We stayed at Rifugio Croda da Lago during July of 2022 with some friends. Since we were a group of 9 people (two families) we decided to book our hut trip in advance. We booked in early April for our stay in July. We’ve already done several hut trips with our kids. This was one of the highlights of our 4 week trip to Europe and our tween and teens in particular loved this hike and the night in the hut.
Since it was cold in the evening we ate all our meals outside, but enjoyed the atmosphere on the deck in the afternoon. Our teens also took a cold swim in Lago Federa after getting permission from the hut and felt completely refreshed!
Things to Know About the Croda da Lago Hike
Below you can find some common questions about the Croda da Lago hike and staying in the Rifugio.
Best Time of Year to Hike to Croda da Lago
The best time of year to hike in the Dolomites and to hike to Rifugio Croda da Lago is from June-October. The hut may close due to weather, so it’s always best to contact the hut.
How long does it Take to Hike the Croda da Lago Loop
The entire hike is about 8 miles and takes 5-7 hours to complete. Don’t underestimate the boulder field as this section of the trail takes the longest to navigate.
Is it Worth Spending the Night at Rifugio Croda da Lago
Absolutely! We loved the entire hike our overnight in Rifugio Croda da Lago.
Complete Details of Hiking Croda da Lago
We started the Croda da Lago hike around 9 am from the trailhead at SP638 at Ponte de Ru Curto. Since we were planning to spend a night in the hut, we enjoyed the hike at a leisurely pace. If you are hiking this as a day hike, we recommend getting an earlier start.
The first 1.8 miles of the hike are along a pretty trail that passes through a forest. While there is some gentle elevation gain, the trail is easy with a few bridges. While you don’t have many views for the first section of this hike, this forest is very pretty and we enjoyed the start to the hike.
After 1.8 miles you will reach the trail break for the Croda da Lago loop. We chose to hike the trail in a counterclockwise direction. If you want to go directly to Lago Federa and Rifugio Croda da Lago, take the left trail.
After turning right the trail begins to ascend more steeply although you are still partly in the forest, you begin to get views of the Croda da Lago Mountains. The trail winds its way up the valley and the trail becomes increasingly difficult up through the rock slide. We were hiking this trail with our twins who are 14 years old and 10 year old and while we took our time, none of our kids had any difficulty with this trail.
The trail up through the boulder field is winding and and takes some work to follow, but there is no way to really get lost in this section. Note that the rocks are jagged and often loose so a sturdy pair of hiking boots with ankle support is recommended.
Forcella del Formin
As you approach Forcella del Formin the path begins to flatten out and you ascend to the highest point of the hike. From Forcella del Formin you get 360 degree views- you can see the view of the saddle and our picnic lunch in the photo below. The view is truly tremendous. There are some small trails around the saddle that give you some different views.
After leaving Forcella del Formin the trail descends steeply downhill. You will also see several trails that leave to the left to Forcelle Rosse. This trail looks easier as it doesn’t lose elevation, however once you go over Forcella Rosse, the trail descends down a steep scree field. This is how we went initially and it was a very unpleasant hiking experience that felt dangerous and no one enjoyed it. The trail goes downhill until it joins with the large path that runs along the base of the scree field to Lago Federa.
Forcella Ambrizola
The better path to take is the one that goes downhill and then ascends up to Forcella Ambrizola. This trail is longer but much easier footing and much more enjoyable. The views from Forcella Ambrizola are also worth it.
From this saddle, the trail turns to the left and heads gently downhill towards the Rifugio transversing the side of the slope. You will see Rifugio Croda da Lago and Lago Federa in the distance.
Lago Federa
Lago Federa is a beautiful lake set amid the trees at the base of Croda da Lago Mountain. The Emerald colored waters and spikey mountains make for a dramatic view. While we were there in the summer, the fall is also supposedly a beautiful time to visit amid the changing fall colors.
There is a trail that goes completely around Lago Federa and a few of us jumped in for a swim after hiking most of the way around.
After enjoying the lake, we spent the evening and night at Rifugio Croda da Lago. The next morning we had an early breakfast before heading back to our car. The last part of this hike follows Lago Federa and passes along the northern part of the Croda da Lago Mountains. There is a pretty overlook out over Cortina d’Ampezzo, but otherwise much of this trail is wooded and descends steeply for a short time until leveling off as you make your way back to the trailhead.
Have you hiked the Croda da Lago Loop or stayed at Rifugio Croda da Lago? Drop a note or ask a question in the comments.
If you are visiting the Dolomites, you may also want to check out:
- Complete Guide to the Stunning Lago Di Braies Hike
- Lago Boe
- Complete Guide to the Tre Cime Hike and the Option for the Paternkofel Via Ferrata
- Cycling in the Dolomites: One Day Biking in the Beautiful Selva Di Val Gardena
- Complete Guide to Arabba, Italy
- The Legendary Dolomites in the Summer: 1 Week Dolomite’s Itinerary
